What is Gallnut Black?

Among the most elegant and elemental of natural dyes, gallnut black is quietly powerful. Unlike the glossy blacks of synthetic dyes, gallnut-based tones have a soft depth — somewhere between charcoal, ink, and shadow.

At vonoz, gallnut black plays a central role in our bespoke cashmere shawls. It is the base of balance: grounding other colors, creating contrast for Kani motifs, or offering a monochrome palette with historic resonance.

What Are Gallnuts?

Gallnuts — also called oak galls — are small, woody growths that form on oak trees in response to insect activity. Rich in tannic acid, they have been used for centuries in inks, mordants, and natural dyes.

In dyeing, their true magic appears when combined with iron salts (ferrous sulfate). The reaction produces a stable, dark pigment that binds exceptionally well to protein fibers like cashmere, wool, and silk.

A Dye Rooted in History

Gallnut black was used in medieval Europe to write illuminated manuscripts, in Persia to dye turbans, and in East Asia to color fine garments. Its presence across so many cultures speaks to its accessibility and permanence — both visual and symbolic.

Unlike pitch-black synthetics, gallnut black carries with it an organic softness. It reflects light differently, giving the dyed fabric a matte, almost mineral quality.

Why vonoz Uses Gallnut Black

For us, gallnut black is not just a neutral — it’s a tone of discipline and dignity. It allows the character of the handspun cashmere to remain visible while anchoring more vibrant hues like cochineal red or saffron gold.

In double face weaves or Sozni-embroidered pieces, gallnut black offers contrast without harshness — ideal for wearers who appreciate understatement without compromise.

How It’s Made

Our dyers prepare gallnut extract from ground oak galls, typically harvested from species native to Central and West Asia. The fiber is mordanted with alum or iron salts and immersed slowly, with temperature and pH carefully controlled.

The color result can vary: cool slate, rich anthracite, or warm soot — depending on the underlying fiber tone and bath conditions. Each variation is embraced as part of the dye’s natural character.

Gallnut and Cashmere

On cashmere, gallnut black binds gently and deeply. It does not flatten the fiber’s texture but enhances it — giving the shawl a velvety, mineral touch. Unlike synthetic blacks, which can cause stiffness, gallnut allows the cashmere to retain its airy softness.

Over time, the tone may warm slightly, developing a gentle patina — a sign of life, not loss.

Ecology and Ethics

Gallnuts are a naturally renewable material. They can be harvested without cutting trees, and they decompose safely in the environment. The entire dyeing process is low-impact, non-toxic, and free of synthetic additives — in keeping with vonoz’s commitment to sustainable textile art.

Conclusion: The Elegance of Absence

In design, black is often thought of as a void — but in gallnut black, we find presence. A presence of age, intention, and restraint. It is a black that breathes, that softens, that remembers.

At vonoz, we use gallnut black not to hide, but to reveal: the form of the weave, the gesture of the stitch, the soul of the fiber.

Want to know more about cashmere? See our Cashmere Knowledge Hub.