Grade A Cashmere Explained: The Gold Standard

Grade A cashmere is often cited as the pinnacle of luxury — but what does that grade really mean? In a market saturated with labels like “100% cashmere” or “premium pashmina,” few terms are more misunderstood, or more misused. At vonoz, we believe that true luxury starts with understanding the material. This article dives deep into the science, classification, and truth behind what makes Grade A cashmere so exceptional.

What is “Grade A” Cashmere?

Cashmere grading is primarily based on the diameter of the fiber, measured in microns (μm). The lower the micron count, the finer — and therefore softer — the cashmere. Grade A cashmere is defined by:

• Fiber Diameter: typically between 13.5–15.5 microns
• Fiber Length: around 30–45 mm, allowing for greater yarn strength
• Color: naturally white or cream-colored fibers are more desirable for dyeing
• Origin: High-altitude goats from Ladakh, Mongolia, or parts of Tibet often produce this quality

In contrast, Grade B and C fibers can range up to 19 microns or more — leading to less softness, reduced durability, and more pilling over time.

Why Micron Count Matters

To put it in perspective: human hair averages 50–100 microns in diameter. Even fine merino wool measures around 18–20 microns. The best Grade A cashmere — with fibers half that size — creates an unmatched tactile experience: featherlight, warm, and indulgently soft.

Micron count also affects how the cashmere behaves over time. Finer fibers have greater flexibility, less tendency to break, and better drape. This is especially critical for handwoven shawls or intricately embroidered Sozni pieces, where every movement matters.

The Myth of “100% Cashmere”

One of the most common misconceptions is that “100% cashmere” automatically equals quality. Unfortunately, this label says nothing about the grade or origin of the fiber. A poorly processed, coarser Grade C cashmere garment may legally carry this label, yet perform far worse in comfort and longevity.

This is why educated buyers look beyond the tag — and ask about fiber origin, micron count, and weaving technique. Our article “100% Cashmere Meaning: How to Avoid Blended Scams” explores this further.

Grade A vs. Pashmina vs. Shahtoosh

The term “pashmina” is often used synonymously with cashmere, especially in India and Nepal. Technically, pashmina refers to fine cashmere fibers from Capra hircus goats in the Himalayas — and may qualify as Grade A depending on the processing. However, this is not a globally standardized term.

Shahtoosh, by contrast, refers to the now-illegal wool of the endangered Tibetan antelope. Though extraordinarily fine (~10–11 microns), it is banned under CITES regulations and should never be available legally. Learn more in our comparison guide.

How Is Grade A Cashmere Sourced?

True Grade A cashmere is collected during the spring molting season, when goats naturally shed their undercoat. Ethical herders use combing (not shearing) to gather the down, which preserves fiber length and avoids damage. The raw fiber is then dehaired to remove coarse guard hairs, washed, and sorted by hand.

Some of the world’s finest Grade A fibers come from the Changthang Plateau in Ladakh — the same region where Vonoz sources its Himalayan fibers. The climate and altitude stimulate the growth of ultra-fine underwool, ideal for luxury shawls and scarves.

Grading Systems and Standardization

Unfortunately, there is no globally enforced grading standard for cashmere. Some brands adopt internal metrics, while others reference laboratory reports. Certifications such as the Good Cashmere Standard or Textile Exchange's guidelines are beginning to shift this landscape.

Still, many mass-market “Grade A” claims remain unverifiable. It takes connoisseurship — or a trusted atelier — to know the difference.

How to Recognize Grade A Cashmere

• Feel: Exceptionally soft but not slippery; smooth without fuzziness
• Light Reflection: A subtle matte sheen, not a synthetic shine
• Weight: Surprisingly light for the warmth it provides
• Drape: Folds and flows fluidly, without stiffness
• No Prickle: Even on sensitive skin or the neck area

While tests exist (burn test, microscopy), the most telling factor is time: a true Grade A cashmere garment softens further with wear, without losing shape or pilling excessively.

Why It Matters

In an age of fast fashion and disposable luxury, understanding what constitutes Grade A cashmere is more than a technicality — it's a quiet form of resistance. It means choosing softness that doesn't fade, fibers that honor their origin, and garments that can be passed down across generations.

If you’re considering investing in a bespoke shawl or a heritage piece, understanding Grade A is your starting point. It’s not just about softness — it’s about integrity, tradition, and lasting beauty.

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Want to know more about cashmere? See our Cashmere Knowledge Hub.