How Sozni Embroidery is Executed

If weaving is the architecture of a shawl, embroidery is its poetry. Among the many embellishment techniques of the Indian subcontinent, Sozni embroidery stands out for its delicacy, symmetry, and historic refinement. At vonoz, we work with the last remaining masters of this art — and elevate it through rare materials, custom design, and a philosophy of timelessness.

In this article, we explore the traditional process behind Sozni embroidery on cashmere, how vonoz interprets it anew, and why it remains one of the world’s most exquisite textile expressions.

What is Sozni?

Sozni (also spelled Suzni) is a fine, flat, double-sided embroidery technique practiced almost exclusively in Kashmir. Unlike raised embroidery such as Zardozi, Sozni is intricately stitched into the surface of the fabric using a fine needle and silk or cotton threads.

Its motifs — paisleys, florals, vines — are woven into memory from Mughal court aesthetics and Persian art. A true Sozni piece is identical on both sides — a mirror of perfection that speaks to the patience and virtuosity of the artisan.

The Process at vonoz

Sozni embroidery at vonoz is a multi-stage ritual that begins long before the first stitch:

1. Hand-Carved Design Blocks

Each bespoke shawl begins with a hand-carved wooden block, crafted by one of the last remaining masters of Kashmiri woodblock design. This block is used to stamp the outline of the motif onto the cashmere surface using a natural, water-soluble pigment.

No two blocks are ever reused. The customer receives this tool — a piece of design history — along with the finished shawl.

2. Fiber-Adjusted Embroidery Planning

Depending on the base fiber — be it handspun Ladakhi cashmere, Vicuña, or Qiviut — the thread weight, stitch density, and motif scale are adjusted. This ensures that the embroidery remains part of the textile’s flow, never overwhelming its softness.

3. The Stitching

Sozni is executed with a fine-point needle and split silk or cotton thread, using a repertoire of interlocking, slanted stitches that create uniformity on both sides. One shawl can take 6 to 18 months to complete, depending on its intricacy.

Our artisans often work in natural light, their eyes trained to detect microscopic deviations in tension. Their hands are steady, unhurried — guided more by rhythm than speed.

Why vonoz Sozni is Different

Most Sozni embroidery today is simplified for mass production — stitched on semi-automatic machines or executed on coarse blends. At vonoz, we retain every layer of traditional complexity and elevate it through rare materials and personal design.

• We embroider on pure handspun cashmere, never blends.
• Each Sozni motif is original, unrepeated, and tailored to the customer.
• We combine Sozni with Kani weaving in some of our most exceptional pieces.
• Our artisans are trained in double-face execution — embroidery that is seamless on both sides.

Slow Fashion Embodied

A single vonoz Sozni shawl can involve over a million stitches. This is not decoration — it is devotion. The pace of this work stands in elegant defiance of fast fashion, asserting the value of time, touch, and tradition.

To wear a Sozni-embroidered shawl is to wear history, intention, and identity.

Conclusion: A Legacy in Every Stitch

In an age of machine repetition, Sozni endures as a celebration of human patience and skill. At vonoz, we do not replicate this tradition. We carry it forward — one stitch, one story at a time.

Each embroidered shawl is not merely an accessory — it is an heirloom of artistry, entrusted to your care.

Want to know more about cashmere? See our Cashmere Knowledge Hub.