Why Cashmere Pills (And How to Minimize It)
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Even the most luxurious cashmere is not immune to pilling. Those small, fuzzy balls that appear on the surface of your shawl or sweater are part of the fabric’s natural lifecycle — not necessarily a sign of poor quality.
In this article, we explore the science behind pilling, why some cashmere pills more than others, and most importantly: how to minimize and manage it to keep your pieces looking pristine.
What Is Pilling?
Pilling occurs when loose fibers twist together due to friction and form small knots on the surface of the garment. It is especially common in areas that experience repeated rubbing — under the arms, at elbows, or wherever a shawl contacts clothing.
Think of it not as a flaw, but as an inevitable aspect of using a natural fiber — just as fine wood will age or patina with use.
Why Does Cashmere Pill?
Pilling is most common in soft, short-staple yarns. Here are the main contributing factors:
- Fiber Length: Shorter fibers are more likely to loosen and roll up
- Low Ply Count: 1-ply yarns pill more than 2-ply or 4-ply constructions
- Friction: Rubbing during wear or washing accelerates pilling
- Blend Ratio: Cashmere blended with synthetics may pill more readily
- Garment Type: Tightly worn or layered pieces (like sweaters) pill faster than loose draping shawls
Interestingly, Grade A cashmere — often under 15 microns in diameter — may be more prone to pilling precisely because it’s so soft and fine. At vonoz, this is why care guides are an essential part of every bespoke piece.
How to Prevent Pilling
While you can’t avoid pilling entirely, you can greatly reduce its appearance with these preventative measures:
1. Let Your Cashmere Rest Between Wears
Like leather or fine shoes, cashmere benefits from resting. Allow at least 24 hours between wears to let fibers recover their shape.
2. Rotate Your Shawls
Alternating between classic shawls, Nepali Essence pieces, and mufflers prevents overuse of any one item — and limits friction on specific areas.
3. Wash Gently and Infrequently
Each wash causes agitation. Handwash in cold water using a wool-safe detergent only when needed. Never rub or wring.
4. Use a Mesh Laundry Bag (If Machine Washing)
Only recommended for tightly woven, non-embroidered pieces. See our full guide: Machine Washing Cashmere.
5. Avoid Over-Layering
Wearing heavy outerwear over a delicate cashmere garment can cause friction, especially at the shoulders and arms.
6. Store Carefully
Fold instead of hang. Use breathable cotton storage bags. See our full advice on cashmere storage here.
How to Remove Pills Once They Appear
If pilling does occur, don’t panic. There are several safe methods to remove them:
- Cashmere comb (best for regular maintenance)
- Sticky tape (for light fuzz on scarves)
- Fabric shaver (only for dense knits, not woven shawls)
- Precision scissors (for delicate work around embroidery)
Does Pilling Mean Poor Quality?
Not at all. In fact, it’s often the finest, softest fibers that pill first. A coarse wool garment may not pill — but it also lacks the handfeel, breathability, and refinement of true cashmere.
That said, excessive, immediate pilling can indicate inferior fiber selection or a too-loose weave. At vonoz, our handwoven and handspun shawls are crafted for longevity as well as beauty.
The Bottom Line
Pilling is natural — not permanent. With light maintenance, a shawl or sweater will settle into a smoother, more stable state after its first few wears. This is known as the fiber’s “breaking-in” phase.
Treat your cashmere with care and knowledge, and it will repay you with decades of softness, elegance, and warmth.
Want to know more about cashmere? See our Cashmere Knowledge Hub.